The Basilica Cistern is a vast underground reservoir built in the 6th century under Emperor Justinian I, its roof held up by 336 columns rising from shallow water. It sits across the street from Hagia Sophia, beside the Sultanahmet tram stop. With its dim lighting, forest of columns and two mysterious Medusa heads, it is one of the most atmospheric places in Istanbul and a perfect refuge on a rainy or scorching day.
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The sunken palace under a lost square
The cistern takes its name from the Stoa Basilica, a large colonnaded square that once stood above it. It was enlarged into its present form around 532, as part of Justinian's rebuilding after the Nika riots. Roughly 140 metres long and 70 metres wide, it is supported by 336 columns about nine metres tall, arranged in 12 rows of 28. Water arrived through aqueducts and channels from sources north of the city.
The Ottomans called it Yerebatan Sarayı, the Sunken Palace, and the name fits. In the 16th century the French scholar Petrus Gyllius reintroduced it to Europe after hearing that locals lowered buckets through holes in their basements and even caught fish.
Medusa heads and the Weeping Column
In the northwest corner, two columns rest on huge carved Medusa heads, one upside down and one on its side. They were almost certainly salvaged from an older Roman building, and nobody knows for sure why they were placed this way. Legend says it was to neutralise the Gorgon's petrifying gaze; the practical explanation is that they simply fitted the required height.
Near the middle, look for the Weeping Column, also called the Hen's Eye Column, carved with teardrop and eye patterns and always damp to the touch. Its decoration resembles columns from the Forum of Theodosius near today's Beyazıt.
What to look for
- The first view: From the entrance platform, the symmetrical rows vanish into the gloom; it's the classic photo.
- The Medusa heads: At the far end of the walkway, lit dramatically above the water.
- The Weeping Column: Easy to spot thanks to its eye-shaped reliefs.
- The fish: Carp glide through the shallow water, a favourite with children.
- Contemporary art: Since reopening in 2022 the cistern hosts rotating art installations among the columns.
Restoration, lighting and film fame
After an extensive restoration that included earthquake strengthening, the cistern reopened in 2022 with new raised walkways and lighting that picks out individual columns for a more theatrical effect. Film fans may recognise it from the 1963 James Bond film From Russia with Love and from Inferno (2016).
It stays cool and damp year-round, which makes it a welcome escape in summer. If you enjoy it, pair it with the Cistern of Philoxenos or the Theodosius Cistern; our guide to Istanbul's cisterns compares them.
Getting there from Sareban Hotel
It is an easy walk from our hotel. Climb up to the Hippodrome and follow it to the northern end past the German Fountain; the small stone entrance building stands across the tram tracks, facing Hagia Sophia. The Sultanahmet stop on the T1 tram line is right beside it.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Basilica Cistern take?
The walkway is short, but with photos and the art installations allow 30 to 45 minutes.
Is it good for kids?
Yes. Most children love the fish and the Medusa heads. It is dim inside and reached by stairs, so a carrier works better than a stroller.
Why are the Medusa heads upside down?
No one knows for certain. Legend links it to warding off the Gorgon's gaze; the likelier reason is that the blocks were reused to reach the right column height.
Is the Basilica Cistern worth it on a rainy day?
Absolutely. It is fully underground and one of the best options for rainy or very hot weather.
