The Sahaflar Çarşısı is a small booksellers' market set around a shady courtyard between Beyazıt Mosque and the Beyazıt Gate of the Grand Bazaar. Books, manuscripts and paper have been traded in this part of the city for centuries, and today it is a peaceful place to browse second-hand and academic books, old maps, calligraphy and miniature prints.
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A market built on paper and ink
A sahaf is a dealer in old and handwritten books. Printing only began to take hold in the Ottoman capital in the 18th century, so for a long time the book trade relied on manuscripts, copyists, bookbinders and calligraphers, and the sahafs were where all of them met. Tradition holds that books and paper were already sold in this area in Byzantine times.
The booksellers originally worked inside the Grand Bazaar. According to most accounts they moved to this spot after the earthquake of 1894, to a small market adjoining the courtyard gate of Beyazıt Mosque. It gave them a calm, shaded corner between the mosque and the great bazaar.
Under the plane tree with İbrahim Müteferrika
In the middle of the courtyard stands a bust of İbrahim Müteferrika, who founded the first Ottoman Turkish printing press in the early 18th century. The books he printed are now prized collector's items, so his presence here links the old manuscript trade with the arrival of print.
The shops are narrow and deep, with shelves running to the ceiling, and many put tables of books outside. You will find Ottoman-script volumes, vintage magazines, engravings of Istanbul, illumination and calligraphy, copies of the Quran and prayer books, academic titles and children's books side by side.
What to look for
- Old maps and engravings: Prints of historic Istanbul and the Bosphorus make light, meaningful souvenirs.
- Calligraphy and miniature prints: Ask the seller whether a piece is an original or a reproduction.
- Books about Istanbul in English: A good selection on city history, architecture and Ottoman art.
- Copies of the Quran and prayer books: Beautifully bound editions, often sought by Muslim travellers.
- The courtyard itself: The plane tree and the Müteferrika bust make a calm, photogenic scene.
Tips for book lovers
Bargaining here is much gentler than in the Grand Bazaar, although asking politely for a small discount when you buy several books is normal. For older items, check the printing date, missing pages and the state of the binding. Genuine historic manuscripts and objects classed as cultural property are subject to export restrictions, so if you are considering such a purchase, ask the seller for documentation.
The market is small and easy to see in half an hour, though book lovers rarely manage it that quickly. For more souvenir ideas, see our guide to what to buy in Istanbul.
Getting there from Sareban Hotel
Walk west along Divanyolu from the hotel, past the Column of Constantine, until you reach Beyazıt; one entrance to the book market is through a side gate of the Beyazıt Mosque courtyard. By tram, get off the T1 at Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı and cross the square. If you are already inside the Grand Bazaar, simply leave through the Beyazıt Gate and the book market is right across the lane.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Sahaflar book bazaar?
It lies between Beyazıt Mosque and the Beyazıt Gate of the Grand Bazaar. One entrance opens directly into the mosque courtyard.
Can I find books in English?
Yes. There are plenty of English-language books on Istanbul, Ottoman history and art, and some shops also stock titles in Arabic and other languages.
Do people bargain at the book bazaar?
Much less than in the Grand Bazaar, but asking politely for a discount when buying several books is common.
