Süleymaniye is the historic neighbourhood on the Historic Peninsula's third hill, overlooking the Golden Horn and built around the vast complex that Sinan designed for Süleyman the Magnificent. Madrasas, a great library, wooden houses and the architect's own tomb share the hilltop. It is far calmer than Sultanahmet and offers one of the finest views in the city.
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A hilltop that grew around one great complex
In Süleymaniye it is hard to say where the mosque ends and the neighbourhood begins. The complex's madrasas, former hospital, soup kitchen and bath form a ring around the mosque, and the residential streets spread out beyond it down the slopes to the Golden Horn. Some of the madrasas now house the Süleymaniye Library, famous for its manuscripts, so researchers and students crossing the courtyards are a common sight.
A few streets from the mosque the other Süleymaniye appears: timber houses, some beautifully restored and others close to collapse, tiny neighbourhood mosques, old fountains and children playing in the lanes. The quiet here makes it easy to forget that the Grand Bazaar is only a few hundred metres away.
Sinan's journeyman work and his modest tomb
The Süleymaniye Complex was built between 1550 and 1557. The mosque was the centre of an entire urban ensemble of madrasas, a medical school, a hospital, a public kitchen, a caravanserai and a bath. In the garden behind the prayer wall stand the tombs of Süleyman the Magnificent and his wife Hürrem Sultan. At the northern corner of the complex is the small, plain tomb Sinan designed for himself, a striking contrast with the grandeur of his mosque.
According to a well-known tradition, Sinan described the Şehzade Mosque as his apprentice work, the Süleymaniye as his journeyman work and the Selimiye in Edirne as his masterpiece. The Şehzade Mosque, at the southern edge of the district, was built in 1543–1548 in memory of Prince Mehmed, who died young, and was Sinan's first great imperial complex. Nearby, the Kalenderhane Mosque is a 12th-century Byzantine church, named after the Kalenderi dervishes who were given it after the conquest.
What to see in Süleymaniye
- Süleymaniye Mosque: Sinan's largest work in Istanbul, with a vast, luminous interior, faultless proportions and a garden terrace over the Golden Horn.
- The tombs of Süleyman and Hürrem: in the cemetery garden behind the prayer wall, decorated with tiles and painted designs.
- Mimar Sinan's tomb: a small structure at the northern corner of the complex, easy to walk past without noticing.
- Şehzade Mosque: Sinan's first imperial complex, with its four half-domes and a garden of tombs.
- Kalenderhane Mosque: a converted Byzantine church with a quiet interior and fine marble revetment.
- Just west of the district, the Aqueduct of Valens strides over Atatürk Boulevard.
Walk: from Süleymaniye down to Şehzadebaşı
- From Beyazıt, follow the side streets beside the university to the Süleymaniye Mosque; see the courtyard first, then the interior.
- Go round to the garden terrace behind the mosque for the view over the Golden Horn, Galata and the mouth of the Bosphorus, then visit the tombs.
- Find Sinan's tomb at the northern corner of the complex, beside the old row of shops.
- Wander west through the timber-house lanes towards Vefa, watching for old fountains and neighbourhood mosques.
- Head downhill to the Kalenderhane Mosque and finish at the Şehzade Mosque and the Aqueduct of Valens.
Beans on rice and the memory of a soup kitchen
The old row of shops opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque is home to one of Istanbul's most loved food traditions: kuru fasulye, white beans slow-cooked in a tomato sauce and ladled over buttery rice pilaf. Served with pickles and sliced onion, this humble plate has been the shared lunch of madrasa students and shopkeepers for generations.
For centuries the complex's soup kitchen fed students, travellers and the poor, and the area's sense of hospitality still echoes that tradition. Round off your meal with semolina helva, rice pudding or sesame pastries from a local bakery. Our Istanbul food guide covers the classics.
For families: big courtyards and shady gardens
With children, Süleymaniye is a far more relaxed mosque visit than Sultanahmet. The wide courtyard and surrounding gardens are good for stretching legs and resting, and crowds are rarely overwhelming. The tomb garden is a cemetery, so remind children to be quiet there.
The lanes running down to the Golden Horn are steep and sometimes stepped. With a pushchair, arrive via the level route from Beyazıt and return the same way. Our mosque etiquette guide explains the dress code.
Getting there from Sareban Hotel
Walk from our hotel to the Sultanahmet stop, take the T1 tram to Beyazıt–Kapalıçarşı and then walk about 10 minutes past Istanbul University to the mosque. You can also walk the whole way via Divanyolu and the Grand Bazaar; allow a little over half an hour, mostly uphill.
A great combination is to walk downhill from Süleymaniye via the Rüstem Pasha Mosque to Eminönü and take the tram back, so you only climb the hill once.
Frequently asked questions
Should I see the Süleymaniye or the Blue Mosque?
Ideally both, because they are very different experiences. The Blue Mosque dazzles with its tiles; the Süleymaniye impresses with its serene space, calmer atmosphere and Golden Horn views.
Is there an entrance fee for the Süleymaniye Mosque?
No. It is a working mosque and entry is free. Sightseeing pauses briefly at prayer times, and the usual mosque dress code applies.
Where is the best view in Süleymaniye?
The garden terrace behind the mosque looks over the Golden Horn, the Galata Tower and the mouth of the Bosphorus. For more viewpoints see our photo spots guide.
