The Rüstem Pasha Mosque is a small mosque by Mimar Sinan, built in the early 1560s for Süleyman the Magnificent's grand vizier and covered inside and out with Iznik tiles. It sits on a raised terrace above market shops a few streets west of the Spice Bazaar, so it is easy to walk straight past. For anyone interested in Ottoman ceramics, it is the single most rewarding interior in the city.
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A grand vizier's wealth, written in tile
Rüstem Pasha married Süleyman's daughter Mihrimah Sultan and served twice as grand vizier. He was famous as a shrewd manager of the treasury and for his own considerable fortune. A popular story claims that when rivals spread a rumour that he had leprosy, doctors found a louse on him, which was taken as proof of good health, earning him the nickname ‘louse of fortune’.
According to most sources the mosque was built by his foundation after his death in 1561 and completed around 1563. Covering an interior this thoroughly with Iznik tiles was an enormous expense, which makes the building a statement of the family's status as much as an act of piety.
A mosque on top of a market
Space was tight in the crowded commercial district of Tahtakale, so Sinan raised the mosque on a platform built over vaulted shops whose rent supported the foundation. You climb narrow stone stairways from the street and emerge onto a quiet terrace high above the noise of the market.
The central dome rests on an octagonal system of supports, with small half-domes filling the corners. A single minaret and a colonnaded porch keep the proportions intimate. This is not a monumental imperial mosque like Süleymaniye, but a refined and personal commission.
What to look for in the tiles
- The porch facade: Before you even step inside, the panels flanking the door set the tone.
- Raised coral red: A thick red glaze developed in the Iznik workshops from the 1550s, slightly raised to the touch. This mosque is one of the first places it was used on such a scale.
- Tulips, carnations, hyacinths and pomegranates: Dozens of different patterns cover walls, piers and the mihrab area. Try spotting the same design twice.
- Saz leaves and cypress trees: Look closely at the curling, feathery leaves typical of the classical Ottoman style.
- The mihrab and window lunettes: This is where the colour is at its most intense.
Making the most of a short visit
Because the mosque is small, it is reserved entirely for worship at prayer times, so plan your visit between them. Move slowly, speak quietly and skip the flash. If Sinan's work inspires you, climb uphill to the Süleymaniye Mosque or follow our Mimar Sinan route.
The street below, Hasırcılar, is named after the mat-makers who once worked here and is still lined with kitchenware, nut and grocery shops. Paired with the Spice Bazaar, it shows Eminönü's old trading quarter at its most lively. Our mosque etiquette guide covers what to wear.
Getting there from Sareban Hotel
Take the T1 tram from Sultanahmet or Çemberlitaş to Eminönü. Walk past the New Mosque to the western gate of the Spice Bazaar and continue along Hasırcılar Caddesi for a few minutes. The entrance is a stairway rising through an arched doorway between shopfronts; watch for the small sign or you will miss it.
Alternatively, walk down the steep Mahmutpaşa slope from Çemberlitaş, passing the Grand Bazaar district on the way. More nearby sights are listed in our Eminönü guide.
Frequently asked questions
Why is the Rüstem Pasha Mosque hard to find?
It stands on a platform above street-level shops, and the entrances are narrow stairways between shopfronts. From the street it hardly looks like a mosque at all.
What makes its tiles special?
They date from the high point of Iznik production and are among the earliest large-scale uses of the raised red glaze. The variety of designs and the density of tiling, inside and on the porch, are unmatched in Istanbul.
How long should I spend there?
Twenty to thirty minutes is enough to take in the tiles calmly. It fits easily into a morning with the Spice Bazaar and the New Mosque.
