The quickest way into Istanbul's everyday life is to eat on the street: a sesame simit in the morning, a fish sandwich by the pier at lunch, a paper cone of roasted chestnuts at dusk. This guide explains the classic street foods, what is in them, when they are in season and a few sensible precautions. We name no vendors, because the joy of street food is that a good version can be found at almost any corner cart.
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Simit, the city's breakfast ring
Dipped in grape molasses and rolled in sesame, the ring-shaped simit has been Istanbul's breakfast for centuries. Vendors with red carts or trays balanced on their heads are out early. Pair one with a wedge of cheese, a carton of ayran or a glass of tea and eat it on a ferry, as locals do. The same carts often sell poğaça and açma, two soft savoury pastries.
On the ferry, keep an eye on the gulls: tossing a piece of simit brings the whole flock in seconds.
Balık ekmek: the Eminönü fish sandwich
At the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge, fish is grilled on ornate boats rocking on the water and served in half a loaf with onion and lettuce. Mackerel is the usual choice, depending on the season. Locals wash it down with tangy pickle juice from the nearby pickle stands.
You will find similar stalls on the Karaköy side and along the Üsküdar waterfront. Watch for small bones, and debone the fish for children.
Stuffed mussels and kokoreç
Midye dolma are mussels stuffed with spiced rice and steamed. The vendor opens each shell, squeezes lemon over it and hands you another as soon as you finish; gesture when you have had enough. As with any seafood, choose busy stalls with a fast turnover, particularly in hot weather.
Kokoreç is the boldest item on the list: lamb intestines wrapped around offal, roasted on a horizontal spit over charcoal, then chopped and tossed on a griddle with oregano and chilli flakes before going into bread. It is offal, and it is not for everyone, but many who try it come back for more.
Seasonal carts: chestnuts and corn
When the weather cools, the smell of roasted chestnuts drifts across the squares. They are sold in paper cones and double as hand warmers. Look for carts on Sultanahmet Square, outside the Spice Bazaar and along İstiklal Avenue.
The same carts usually sell corn on the cob, either boiled or charcoal-grilled and sprinkled with salt, found on the seafront in summer and in the squares in winter.
The ice cream show
Stretchy Maraş-style ice cream, made with salep and mastic, is thick enough to be cut with a knife, and in Istanbul it comes with a performance. Vendors in traditional costume hold out the cone, whisk it away, flip it upside down and trick you several times before finally letting you have it. Children love it, and the ice cream always ends up in your hand, so play along.
Winter drinks: boza and salep
Boza is a thick, slightly sour and sweet fermented drink made from millet, traditionally enjoyed as a non-alcoholic winter drink, dusted with cinnamon and served with roasted chickpeas. The drawn-out call of boza sellers on winter evenings is one of old Istanbul's nostalgic sounds.
Salep is a hot, creamy milk drink thickened with powdered orchid root and topped with cinnamon. It is sold on ferries, at piers and from carts throughout the winter.
Chicken and rice, and other filling classics
Sold from glass-fronted carts, tavuk pilav is buttery rice with chickpeas topped with shredded poached chicken. Lunchtime queues form by piers and office blocks; it is fast, cheap and filling, usually with a glass of ayran.
- Kumpir: a giant baked potato mashed with butter and cheese and loaded with toppings, strongly associated with the area around Ortaköy Mosque.
- Gözleme: thin dough cooked on a griddle with cheese, potato or spinach.
- Dürüm: döner or köfte wrapped in flatbread, the classic quick bite on an evening stroll, for example in Kadıköy.
Eating street food safely
- Pick busy stalls with constant turnover; freshness depends on it.
- Be selective with seafood in hot weather.
- Ask the price before ordering; it is normal and avoids surprises.
- Carry small cash, as many carts do not take cards.
- From our hotel, walk down to the Kennedy Avenue seafront and head towards Eminönü; you will pass plenty of simit and corn carts on the way. Read our Istanbul food guide for sit-down dishes.
Frequently asked questions
What exactly is kokoreç?
It is lamb intestines wrapped around offal and roasted on a spit, then chopped with spices and served in bread. It is a much-loved street food but definitely offal.
Is boza alcoholic?
Boza is a fermented grain drink that is traditionally sold and consumed in Turkey as a non-alcoholic winter drink. It tastes slightly sour and sweet.
When is each street food in season?
Simit, fish sandwiches, mussels and kokoreç are available all year. Chestnuts, boza and salep are autumn and winter treats, while corn is more common in summer.
Which street foods are good for children?
Simit, corn, chestnuts, the ice cream show and chicken with rice are safe favourites with most children.
