Princes' Islands (Büyükada, Heybeliada)

A ferry ride from the city's noise

You notice the change from the ferry deck: the skyline falls away and ahead rise pine-covered hills and waterfront mansions painted white, pink and yellow. When you step ashore, the loudest sounds are seagulls and bicycle bells.

Each island has its own personality. Kınalıada is named after its henna-red soil and has a strong Armenian heritage; Burgazada is small and quiet, with the home of writer Sait Faik Abasıyanık now a museum. Heybeliada is greener and calmer, with forests and historic schools, while Büyükada is the busiest, with its grand mansions, market street and hills.

From islands of exile to summer retreat

In Byzantine times, deposed emperors, princes and nobles were often exiled to monasteries on these islands, which is how they earned the name Princes' Islands. Büyükada's Byzantine name, Prinkipo, simply means Prince's Island.

Once regular steamers began in the nineteenth century, the islands became the summer retreat of Istanbul's Greek, Armenian, Jewish, Levantine and Turkish families, and many of the mansions you admire today date from that era. According to historical accounts, Leon Trotsky spent part of his exile, between 1929 and 1933, in a mansion on Büyükada. On Heybeliada, the Theological School of Halki, founded in 1844, trained clergy for the Ecumenical Patriarchate for well over a century until it was closed in 1971.

What to see on Büyükada and Heybeliada

• St George's Church and Yücetepe hill (Büyükada): a monastery church near the island's highest point. On the steep, cobbled path you'll see threads tied by pilgrims making wishes, and the summit looks out over the Marmara and the other islands. Around 23 April, thousands of people of many faiths climb up to make a wish.
• Büyükada's mansions: the streets leading uphill from the pier are lined with turreted, gingerbread-trimmed timber villas set in gardens, perfect for an architecture walk.
• The Greek Orphanage (from outside): an enormous timber building, often described as one of the largest wooden structures in Europe, built as a hotel in the late nineteenth century and later turned into an orphanage. It's derelict and can only be viewed from outside.
• The Halki Seminary (from outside): the historic school within the Hagia Triada Monastery on Heybeliada's Ümit Hill, visible from the road that climbs the hill.
• Heybeliada's pine forests and bays: Çam Limanı cove and the Değirmen Burnu headland are the island's most peaceful corners for walks and picnics.
• Summer beaches: in summer, small public beaches and day-use beach clubs open in coves on both islands; the Marmara is usually warm enough for swimming from late June to September.

A suggested day trip

1. Catch an early ferry and watch the historic peninsula and the Asian shore recede from the deck.
2. Get off first at Heybeliada, stroll around the pier and head up towards the seminary hill or into the pine woods.
3. In the afternoon, hop on the inter-island ferry to Büyükada; walk through the mansion streets or take an electric vehicle to the foot of the St George hill, then climb to the top.
4. Return to the pier in the late afternoon and enjoy sailing back towards the Istanbul skyline at sunset.

What to eat: pier snacks and picnic baskets

Island food is simple and relaxed, like the sea air. On the pier squares, simit, soft poğaça pastries and ice cream are the classic morning and afternoon treats. Waterfront restaurants serve seasonal fish, grilled or pan-fried, with rocket and seasonal salads. If you're heading into Heybeliada's pine woods, a picnic of cheese, olives, fruit and fresh bread bought near the pier makes the best lunch. On the way down from the hill, freshly squeezed orange juice or a cold glass of ayran is very welcome.

The islands with children

With almost no traffic, the islands are one of Istanbul's easiest day trips for families. The ferry ride itself is an adventure, and older children love renting bicycles on the island. The climb to St George's is long and steep, hard work for little legs and pushchairs; an electric vehicle to the foot of the hill and a shorter walk is a good compromise. Bring hats and water on sunny days, and see our family guide to Istanbul for more ideas.

Getting there from Sareban Hotel

Take the tram from the stop near our hotel in Küçük Ayasofya to Kabataş at the end of the line. Island ferries leave from the pier there and call at Kınalıada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada in turn. In summer there may be extra departures from Eminönü, and on the Asian side Bostancı pier is the closest departure point to the islands. The crossing takes more than an hour, so set off early. Timetables change with the seasons, so check the official app. For a detailed plan, see our Princes' Islands day-trip guide and our ferry guide.